Welcome to Brush n Go:

Painting and Decorating:

Repair of Rotting Doors & Windows:

Welcome to Brush n Go:
Painting, Decoration and Plastering:
Repair of Rotting Timbers including Sash Window Refurbishment:

Covering: Twickenham, St Margarets, Strawberry Hill, Whitton, Isleworth, Feltham, Brentford, Kew, Syon Park, Richmond, Richmond Hill, Mortlake, Sheen, Barnes, Fulwell, Teddington, Hampton Hill, Hampton Wick & Hampton.

Postcode Areas: TW1, TW2, TW3, TW4, TW7, TW8, TW9, TW10, TW11, TW12, TW13, TW14, SW13, SW14 & KT1.

Contact Details:

Phone or Text David on 07751 738 843.

Thank you for visiting: Request a Free Quote:

Thank you for visiting. Please don't hesitate to call concerning your painting & decorating requirements if you are wallpaper stripping and concerned about the condition of the plaster underneath the paper, have damp patches, rotting doors or windows, paint peeling or putty on your sash windows that needs replacing. I am competitively priced and undertake both interior & exterior works.

I have been offering painting, decorating services for over 30 years in the Richmond, Twickenham, Teddington and Hampton areas, from wallpaper stripping to re plastering to painting with bold pigmented colours such as Farrow and Ball paints, to a quick white and magnolia spruce up. My exterior works also include the repair of rotting window and door frames, sash window refurbishment and pointing.

A brief list of my Services:

Preparation of surfaces for decoration:

Painting & Decorating is a trade where the preparation of surfaces is exceptionally important: With all wooden structures surfaces will be sanded, flaking paintwork removed, bare woodwork preserved and primed, followed by 2 genorous undercoats and a final gloss. With a through cleaning and light sanding in-between coats.

I watch many painters & decorators slapping a quickie on sash windows that were built by hand over 140 years ago; which require tender loving care. It does truly break my heart to observe such terrible workmanship, you can rest assured, I will not cut corners and all works will be carried out to the highest standards.

Removing carpets and furnishings before decoration:

Although it is always pleasant to work in a room that has no carpets, removing of carpets is not necessary. All areas where works will be undertaken will, be appropriately covered, against foot traffic and spillages (including tea & coffee).

Protection of floorings and furniture:

 Brush n Go: When painting and decorating all surfaces and flooring are protected against spilages.

I am a firm believer of using plastic to protect floorings and furnishings not only in the work area, but also on the floor where there will be through traffic.

Illustrated; a kitchen in Amyan Park Road, TW1, where plastic has been carefully laid over the floor and on work surfaces, . On the floor area, duct tape secures the floor covering against tripping up and lifting around the edges. Masking tape is always laid along the skirtings edges and duct tape is then laid on top of the masking tape and adjoining plastic floor covering.

Removing furniture & furnishings before decoration:

It is best to remove smaller items like pictures, ornaments and small pieces of furniture. But larger items can generally stay in the room and simply be moved accordingly as the work progresses.

Sash Window Refurbishment: Repair of rotting timbers:

Wet Rot in Hampton Wick:

Marie's lovely garden house in her 180 year old property in Hampton Wick. The images illustrate a sash window before and after refurbishment.

 Brush n Go. Sash Window after repair and refurbishment.

Wet Rot in Hampton Wick:

Marie's lovely garden house in her 180 year old property in Hampton Wick. The images illustrate a sash window before and after refurbishment.

 Brush n Go. Sash Window refurbishment.  A sash window suffering from wet rot.

The paintwork on the bottom sash and both wooden and concrete cills had blistered and was removed with only mild scraping and sanding.

There was wet rot within the intersections of the bottom rail and lower stiles of both sash windows, the cill, the parting beads and the outside lining.

Putty was missing on the lower rails of both the upper and lower sash. The pointing between the outer lining of the window and the brickwork was either missing, loose and cracked. Damaged pointing was removed and the gap re pointed.

What causes exterior paintwork to blister:

Blistering of exterior paintwork and accompanying wet rot due to rainwater penetration; is usually a combination of many factors.

Intersections and Movement:

Where one section of a structure intersects with another is always the structures weakest part, which is why a joint called a mortise and tenon is generally used at the intersections of doors and windows to strengthen the intersection. However there will always be movement at the joint. Factors causing movement are:

The images clearly show how movement of an intersection, will cause cracking of both the intersection and the paintwork, allowing rainwater to penetrate behind the paint and swell the joint. With cold, heat, lack of maintenance and time causing further blistering of the paintwork and wet rot in the timbers.

 The side window of the garden house in Hampton Wick.
 Filler has been used on top of rotting timbers.
 Water has been penetrating through the blistering paint and underneath the filler.
 Water penetration has caused considerable wet rot.
 Rotting timbers are removed and a new sub cill is installed.
 New bottom rails are installed, the new timbers are 
 preserved with boiled linseed oil, primed, undercoated and glossed.
Use of filler to repair windows:

The images opposite show the side window of the garden house. Like the sash window above there had been previous attempts to repair the window using just a filler.

A first glance it would appear that only the paintwork is blistering.

However as the paintwork is removed white filler can be seen on top of rotting wood, the blistering of the paint has caused water to penetrate into and under the filler causing excessive wet rot resulting in most of the cill and bottom rails of the window to have crumbled away.

The remaining wood is preserved with boiled linseed oil, and a new sub cill and bottom rails are installed. New timbers are preserved with boiled linseed oil, primed with an oil based primer, filled at the intersections of the new timbers and loose putty replaced, before the window is undercoated and glossed with oil based paints.

2: Repairing gaps around door and window frames:

Where the doors and windows of a property intersect with the brickwork, or cladding of a building especially in older Victorian properties, rainwater can penetrate.

Rainwater penetration around the frameworks can be caused by many factors, such as damaged pointing, missing or badly applied silicone sealant, badly fitting doors and windows, all of which are exasperated by lack of maintenance, extreme weather conditions and the opening and closing of the doors and windows.

 A badly fitted and maintained door frame in; Twickenham, showing the blistering of 
paint and a gap around the door frame. Internally rainwater penetration 
causing black mould and the blistering of paint and plaster from the 
walls and woodwork.

Internal symptoms:

Internally you will notice some or all of the following symptoms around the frameworks.

Externally the rainwater seepage will cause the paintwork to blister which will have to be sanded, rotting timbers removed and replaced or filled, bare woodwork preserved and primed, the frameworks undercoated and glossed. Some re pointing or silicone application will be necessary to prevent further rainwater penetration.

Internally one or all of the following may be necessary damp proofing, re plastering, black mould removal and painting where decorative spoiling has occurred. The image opposite illustrating: A badly fitted and maintained door frame showing the blistering of paint and a gap around the door frame. Internally rainwater penetration causing black mould and the blistering of paint and plaster on the walls and woodwork.

Painting and Priming of new plaster:

 A ghost or mist coat applied to new plaster; A property in Hamilton Road, Twickenham

You should always prime with a primer consisting of a water based matt emulsion, mixed with an equal volume of water. This is known as a mist or ghost coat, because it leaves a patchy, misty or ghostly appearance. The water in the mix causes the primer paint to soak into, rather than sit on the top of the plastered surface, which is what happens with an undiluted water based paint. Only a water based matt emulsion paint should be used.

When will the plaster be dry enough. to paint?

New plaster must be allowed to breath, to allow it to dry sufficiently before a water based matt emulsion paint can be used. The drying times for the evaporation of moisture being dependant upon the dryness of the surface applied to (damp walls take longer to dry out), plastering thickness, temperature and most importantly ventilation.

 New plaster drying; A property in Lion Road, Twickenham.

You will notice it is dry enough to paint, when all the dark patches have gone and it is a matt pale pink colour which does not have so much of a shine to it.

However the plaster is not completely dry:

Although the plaster will look dry; and you can paint it, it is not completely dry and will contain pockets of residual moisture, that although detectable with a moisture meter, will be invisible by eye. These pockets of moisture pass through both the plaster and the new paintwork as they evaporate into the room.

Therefore if the paint you use is not permeable to the residual moisture and hinders, rather than allows the moistures evaporation. The paint will effectively create a barrier to the moisture and blister as the residual moisture is evaporating. The time taken for the plaster to completely dry, so there is no residual moisture left to cause decorative spoiling as it evaporates, can be from 6 months to a year, especially if you have had damp proofing works undertaken and are considering wallpapering.

Paints not to use:

Vinyl silk, P.V.A. or oil based paints should be avoided, such paints inhibit the evaporation of the residual moisture within the plaster and they will blister as the moisture evaporates.

Use of P.V.A.

Water based P.V.A. should never be used as a primer sealer on new plaster even when the plaster is completely dry. If the plaster is not completely dry and it is used it will inhibit residual moisture evaporation, but even if applied when the plaster is completely dry, it does not provide a good background to paint onto, because it has a slippery surface, also if you try to sand it, it comes off in lumpy, gluppy globbie bits, that are irritating and never ending, they curse you. So don't use it.

Use of Vinyl Silk paints:

Water based Vinyl Silk usually contains P.V.A. that is what gives it its Silky appearance, until the plaster is completely dry its use should be avoided.

Use of Oil based paints:

If the paint tin says clean the brushes with water its a water based paint, if it says clean brushes with White Spirit, its an oil based paint. An oil based paint is probably the worst paint you can use on new plaster, because quite simply oil and water do not mix. The residual moisture that is evaporating as the plaster is drying; is water.

Therefore you place an almost impermeable barrier to the moisture. The oil based paint will blister badly as the moisture evaporates. An oil based paint can be used when the plaster is completely dry, but it is never a good idea; especially in older properties with a solid wall, to use a paint that does not allow the wall to breath, and will have a greater tendency to blister or encourage condensation and black mould.


If you have only had a skim coat you can wallpaper within 2 weeks, a month to two if the plaster was taken back to the brickwork and 6 months to a year if you have had damp proofing works done.

 Hairline cracks in plaster; A property in Heath Road, Twickenham.

Repairing cracks in walls before decoration:

Hairline Cracks:

Although minor hairline cracks and indentations can be repaired with a light sanding and some filler. If you have lots of surface or hairline cracks cracks, its best to apply a glass fibre scrim tape and reskim the wall. The scrim tape both strengthens and minimizes the possibility of the cracks reappearing.

Deeper cracks:

If the cracks are deeper than hairline cracks, then the plaster will have to be removed to the brickwork, around the crack, if the cracks are due to movement, then the cause of the movement must be addressed. An undercoat plaster, then scrim tape, before a final skim will be necessary. Although a lot of plasterers advocate dabbing with bonding plaster and plaster board, this should be avoided if you have a pre 1920 property with a solid wall.

Covering the following London SW, KT and Twickenham TW Postcode Areas:

London Borough of Richmond upon Thames: The Twickenham TW Postcode Region:

Twickenham   TW1: Twickenham, St. Margarets & Strawberry Hill.

Twickenham   TW2: Twickenham, Whitton, Strawberry Hill & Fulwell.

Twickenham   TW9: Richmond, Kew & Sheen.

Twickenham TW10: Richmond Hill, Sheen & Richmond Park.

Twickenham TW11: Teddington, Fulwell & Bushy Park.

Twickenham TW12: Hampton, Hampton Hill & Fulwell.

London Borough of Richmond upon Thames: The London KT Postcode Region:

London KT1: Hampton Wick.

London Borough of Richmond upon Thames: The London SW Postcode Region:

London SW13: Barnes & Richmond.

London SW14: Mortlake & East Sheen.

London Borough of Hounslow: The Twickenham TW Postcode Region:

Twickenham   TW3: Whitton.

Twickenham   TW4: Whitton.

Twickenham   TW7: Isleworth.

Twickenham   TW8: Brentford, Kew Bridge & Syon Park.

Twickenham   TW13: Feltham & Hanworth.

Twickenham   TW14: Feltham & Bedfont.

Covering the Postcode Areas:

TW1, TW2, TW3, TW4, TW7, TW8, TW9, TW10, TW11, TW12, TW13, TW14, SW13, SW14, KT1.

Brush n Go:

8a Queens Road, Twickenham, Middlesex, TW1 4EX. Mobile: 07751 738 843. Landline: 020 8892 6637.